Search results for 'Reef Article'

Pygmy Angelfishes can get really dark under intense lighting

2010/01/10 07:22

http://reefbuilders.com/2010/01/07/pygm ··· hting%2F

Pygmy angelfish of the genus Centropyge can change color and appearance dramatically from juvenile to adulthood. Like most marine fish, their adult coloration can also change quite a bit depending on their captive aquarium environment. In the past when aquarium fish food and nutrition was relatively poor and little understood, many Centropyge and other marine fish would fade and become less colorful with age and duration in captivity. Now that the marine aquarist has access to a wide range of quality feeds, fading of reef fish colors is much less of an issue but with more Centropyge growing old in brightly lit reef tanks, Pygmy Angelfish owners are witnessing that many Centropyge can become much darker under high intensity reef aquarium lighting. The video above shows an average male Centropyge potteri which is a resident of a 1500 gallon reef tank that was installed and is maintained by AquaticArt Inc. of  Denver Colorado. After less than a year living in this aquarium that is lit with multiple 1000 watt metal halide lamps, this fish has quickly developed a much darker cCentropyge-potteri-dark-maleoloration than we have ever seen for a potter’s angelfish. By contrast another C. potteri living in a very dimly lit 900 gallon fish aquarium also maintained by AquaticArt has a much paler coloration than a typical fresh-caught potter’s angelfish. Kyoshi Endo’s great book Angelfishes of the World also documents the darkening of A Centropyge multicolor: before and after images of a specimen clearly demonstrates the development of a yellowish tan dorsal body color where the body used to be white after this fish was kept in a brightly lit reef aquarium. This image of a multicolor angelfish on Vivid Aquarium’s website shows a specimen which is clearly way darker than a wild specimen would be, probably from living in a brightly lit, shallow water reef tank. The darkening of Centropyge Pygmy Angelfish may not apply to all species but there is a strong record of certain species changing color due to intense lighting conditions.

피그미 엔젤들은 유어부터 성체가 될 때까지 발색과 몸의 모양이 바뀌고 환경에 따라서도 다른 모습을 갖습니다. 먹이등이 좋지 않던 예전에는 영양소부족등으로 인해 같은 나이의 바닷속 고기에 비해 발색이 연해지곤 했습니다. 최근들어 강한 조명 아래에서도 발색이 어두워지는 것을 드워프엔젤을 키우고 계신 분들이 자주 발견을 하곤 합니다. 동영상의 포터스엔젤은 1500갤런의 수조에서 1000와트짜리 메탈등에서 생활하고 있는데 발색이 어두운 것을 알 수 있습니다.(제 기억엔 이런 이슈가 이미 클럽에서 논의되었던 것 같습니다만)또한 조명이 어두운 경우에는 발색이 연하게 됩니다.
물론 모든 드워프엔젤이 이런 경우에 해당되지는 않습니다.

"Reef Article" 카테고리의 다른 글

spsholic Reef Article

2010/01/10 07:22 2010/01/10 07:22

Reef Trends in 2009: Whats hot, whats not

2010/01/09 06:44
reef-trends


ReefBuilder에서 2009년Reef Trend에 관한 글이 있어 소개하고자 합니다.
번역이 이상할 수도 있으니 문제있는 부분은 말씀해주세요. ^^



http://reefbuilders.com/2009/12/30/aqua ··· s-not%2F



Cone Skimmers

In late 2008 we saw the emergence of different types of cone skimmers, however in 2009 we saw them become even more popular. Although there has been much debate over the first company that has brought the cone skimmer to the reef aquarium market we’ve seen a bevy of cone skimmers from different companies. It’s so popular in fact that numerous Chinese companies have now started to produce cone skimmers and whats more is that the craze is going gang busters in other places besides the United States. Places like the UK and Europe along with Asia. However, not all companies are interested in producing cone skimmers. For example, Deltec which gave the cone skimmer craze the middle finger and instead focused on increasing efficiency with their custom line of pumps, but keeping the design in the same basic format, a vertical cylinder.
-->2008년 후반에 여러 종류의 콘스키머가 나타났지만 2009년에 더욱 인기가 있었습니다. 비록 어떤 스키머가 원조인가에 대해서도 논란이 있긴 했지만 여러 회사에서 다양한 스키머들이 출시되었습니다. 인기가 있었던 탓에 많은 중국회사들이 콘스키머를 출시하기 시작하였고 미국뿐 아니라 영국,유럽 아시아등 다른 나라에서도 많은 인기를 누렸습니다. 그러나 모든 회사가 콘스키머 생산에 관심을 가진 것은 아닙니다. 예를 들어 델텍과 같은 회사는 기존 포맷을 유지하면서 자사 라인의 스키머 펌프 효율을 높이는데 주력을 하였습니다.

Rimless Aquariums

To date Europe has been kicking the North American audience rear-end with a great selection of rimless aquariums. However, other countries have finally started to catch on. For example, we are seeing new types of rimless aquariums from mainstream companies like Perfecto, Fluval, and other smaller custom companies. Rimless aquariums just look better and manufactures have finally started to realize the growing market that demands rimless aquariums. It’s taken them entirely too long, but they’re getting their act together. Finally.
-->북미쪽 리퍼들의 테가 없는 탱크에 대한 관심은 대단했으며 이를통해 다른 나라에서도 큰 인기를 얻었습니다. Perfecto,fluval과 같은 큰 회사부터  다른 작은 수조제작 회사들까지 여러 타입의 무테수조가 제작이 되었습니다. 디자인이 좋고 깔끔한 무테로 된 탱크의 특징상 rimless tank의 시장이 커지게 되었습니다.

Increased Efficiency with pumps and lighting

Cone skimmers are great, but what we are seeing more of is getting increased efficiency. This applies to all areas of the industry but specifically to pumps and lighting. Instead of looking of how big a skimmer is, hobbyists and amateurs are looking at the wattage and air draw of skimmer pumps. The norm used to be in the 400-600 lph range but now we are seeing huge increases past the 1,000 mark as manufactures use computer aided models to estimate air flow rates as they experiment with different volute pairings, bearings, and what not.
-->콘스키머는 보기좋기도 하지만 효율을 증가시키기도 합니다.  이런 효율에 관한 관심은 특히 펌프나 조명  분야에 적용이 되었습니다. 얼마나 스키머가 큰가 보다 사람들은 스키머 펌프의 용량이나 공기 흡입량등에 더 많은 관심을 보였습니다. 일반적으로 시간당 400~600리터 범위안에 있지만 제조사들이 컴퓨터등에 도움을 받아 1000lph이상의 결과물을 보여주기도 하였습니다.

Lighting is getting a great efficiency boost with LED, more and more options are being made available and whats more is that LEDs themselves are getting more efficient. Metal Halides, while still popular with older reef hobbyists, will eventually go the way of the do-do bird if electricity utilities keep increasing prices for kwH. For example, here in Chicago I paid $0.22 per KwH and now its over $0.34. That might seem small but in large amounts it multiplies greatly, coupled with the weak economy Metal Haildes are becoming less popular. And more and more reef addicts are looking at T5s and LEDs. They might not be switching right away, but they’re looking which speaks volumes of how their opinions have changed.   Plus there are more options on the market then a year ago. That’s great news for us.
--> 조명의 경우도 LED등을 통해 효율을 꾀하고 있으며 특히나 LED자체의 효율을 증가시키려는 노력이 많이 나타났습니다. 메탈등은 여전히 인기가 있긴 하지만 전기세등으로 인해 결국에는 사용하지 않게 될 겁니다. 예를 들어 시키고에 살고 있는 필자는 킬로와트당 0.22달러를 냈었지만 지금은 0.34달러 이상을 내고 있습니다. 적은 양같아 보이지만 총 전기값은 만만치 않습니다. 이로 인해 메탈등은 점점 인기를 잃어가고 있는 실정입니다. 그리고 점점 많은 사람들이 T5혹은 LED를 살펴보고 있습니다. 이들이 바로 이런 등으로 교체하지는 않겠지만 많은 의견들이 변화하고 있는 것을 알 수 있습니다

Being Green

Several years ago, here in the Untied States it was cool to own a gas guzzler like a Hummer H2, or a Cadillac Escalade. However, with the economic change frugality is now the new “cool”, gone is the fad for large SUVs for couples or single persons to own, you’ll still see them but most are for families with kids when a larger SUV just makes sense. The Toyota Prius or other hybirds are insanely popular along with diesels that deliver over 40 MPG. This same change has affected the industry too. For example, as we all become more aware of the plight of the words oceans, aquacultured corals and tank raised livestock is increasingly popular. Not only are we more interested in tank raised corals and fish, but we’re asking questions of where and how wild caught livestock are caught and then transported. Sure, some don’t care or are to naive to know a difference but the vast majority of you do care, more then ever.
-->몇년전에 미국에서는 Hummer H2나 캐딜락 에스컬레이드와 같이 기름 소비가 많은 차들을 가지는 것을 좋아했습니다. 하지만 요즘에는 아이들이 있는 가족들이 아닌 이상 이런 큰 SUV는 잘 타지 않으며 다양한 하이브리드 차량이 나오고 있습니다.이처럼 환경에 대한 관심이 여러 산업분양에 영향을 미치고 있는 상황입니다.   산호와 고기를 키우는 것에 대한 관심뿐 아니라 우리는 어디에서,어떻게 생물들이 포획되고 있으며 운송되고 있는지에 대해서도 관심을 가져야 합니다.

Accountability & Media

Frag chop shops have disappeared greatly this year, partly due to the economy and the negative stigma that has been published with media outlets like this website. This brings up another point. Accountability. With prior years past, most companies and individuals weren’t accountable for their actions they could do as they please with out any hard repercussions. That’s not true any longer. The media (thats us) has now made companies and individuals responsible for their actions.   You know about illegal Rhizotrochus, orbitec owning a very important patent, and the Fluval G filters being a overpriced paper weight. Accountability is great especially in a smaller industry such as this and something that companies are just now stating to get used to.
-->Frag을 불법적으로 판매하는 상점들이 이번년에 많이 사라졌습니다. 경제적인 문제도 있겠지만 웹사이트와 같은 미디어를 통해 많은 안좋은 인식들이 알려졌기 대문입니다. 이사실은 "책임"이라는 문제를 생각해 보게 됩니다. 과거에 많은 회사나 개인들이 자신의 행동에 책임을 지지 않았지만 더이상은 그렇지 않습니다. Reefbuilder와 같은 다양한 미디어는 이런 개인이나 회사들이 그들의 행동에 책임을 질 수 있도록 하고 있습니다. 우리는 Rhizotrochus산호의 채집과 수입이 불법이라는 것을 알고 있으며(http://reefbuilders.com/2009/09/01/all- ··· orted%2F)
orbitec이 많은 중요한 특허를 가지고 있다는 것을 알고 있으며(orbitec은 LED특허를 가지고 있는 회사이며 PFO가 LED 조명을 내놓았다가 특허분쟁에 휘말렸었습니다http://reefbuilders.com/2009/02/03/big-trouble-brewing-future-aquarium-leds/) Flubal G가 과도한 가격정책을 가져갔다는 것을 알고 있습니다.
(
http://reefbuilders.com/2009/11/09/fluv ··· arket%2F)
책임이란 것은 이런 작은 산업에서 매우 중요한 것입니다.






"Reef Article" 카테고리의 다른 글

spsholic Reef Article

2010/01/09 06:44 2010/01/09 06:44

MB7 and Vodka

2009/12/16 11:03
MB7과 Vodka를 사용하시는 분들을 위해서 RC에 올라온 상황별 대책을 정리한 리스트를 올려봅니다.
요즘엔 MB7 20방울과 vodka7ml정도 투여하고 있는데 유리의 이끼나 녹색,갈색 필름은 사라지고 흰색필름이 생겨서 MB7을 좀 줄이려고 합니다.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showp ··· t%3D1540


MB7 (Bottle Instructions.)
+
Vodka (or carbon) Dosing -
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php
=========================
Probiotic Reef Keeping.

Time to dose = during lights on seems best. MB7 into the display. Vodka into the sump.

Rules
1) Need a good skimmer

Noticed in Water testing
1) high nitrates = increase vodka as per instructions.
2) no Nitrate/Phos change in LONG time = try another carbon source like vinegar, sugar, biofule...
3) low nitrates = maintain till 0 then reduce to maintenence levels of vodka
4) Increase in Alk = stop dosing Cal / alk, test water change h20 for alk level. Decrease with large water changes and/or chemicals if it gets bad. Corals may stop taking Cal/ALK while getting used to Probiotic system & increased light.
4) new tank/build = follow instructions, stay close to the low side of dosing.
5) Phosphate being high = a round of GFO

Noticed in Algae/Bacteria Reaction
1) Bacterial Blooms (slimy white strings) = too much bacteria, decrease vodka dosing.
2) algae on glass after increase of MB7 = reduce MB7 :P
3) brown dusting or brown hair like stuff = decrease MB7 (also check
http://www.rimlessreef.com/1/post/20...eament-of.html )
4) cyano = increase MB7 and/or lower/stop vodka dose. After the cyano has gone away restart the vodka from the initial or maintenence dose. If it's really bad consider a "lights out" period. If really really bad consider "Red Slime Remover."
5) peach fuzz = stop or decrease (especially vodka) dosing for a while (about a week or till the fuzz dies off) then start back up with the maintenance dose. OR This may also just go away in time.
6) glass and sand getting dirtier = dose more/feed less

Noticed in Live Stock Reaction
1) Corals losing color = more feeding, possibly Amino Acids, lower photo period an hour for a while.
2) Corals Burnt Tips = check alkalinity..get it to 7-8 dKH by stop dosing alk...maybe stop dosing EVERYTHING if it gets bad.
3) Monti caps bleaching = Cut the vodka dosage in half and stay there until the cap starts to color up and/or lower the lighting photoperiod for a bit or have a light "day off."
4) Everything dies = Blame the wife, kids, or something other than your own possible mistakes

Other
1) substrate hardening = keep it broken up and syphoned with water changes. Maintain a good high PH of 8.1 - 8.3





"Reef Article" 카테고리의 다른 글

spsholic Reef Article

2009/12/16 11:03 2009/12/16 11:03
  1. Blog Icon
    SPSHolic

    Thanks for visiting to my blog and leaving comment~! Your blog is awesome as always.

    My corals are losing color after reducing fish and increasing MB7 and vodka. so I plan to dose reef actif and AA again.

    Thanks again~

Coral Survival After Long-term Exposure to Air

2009/09/20 13:01
이번 Advanced Aquarist 온라인 잡지에 재밌는 내용이 있어서 소개하고자 합니다.
Coral Survival After Long-term Exposure to Air 라는 재목으로 오랬동안 공기중에 노출된 산호의 생존에 대한 짧은 글인데요.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/9/short


Sourced from : http://virtual.yosemite.cc.ca.us/ghayes ··· ands.htm

간단히 요약을 해보면 글쓴이가  Frag을 얻은 후에 물을 다 버리고 비행기를 타고 차를 타고 집에 오는데까지 8~10시간이 걸렸음에도 불구하고 대부분의 frag들이 생존을 했다는 것입니다. :) 비행기의 경우 국내도 6시간 이내인 미국에서는 물이 없어도 큰 문제가 없다는 얘기이고요.

위의 사진은 AdvancedAquarist의 사진을 도용할 수 없어서 구글에서 비슷한 것을 찾아본 것인데요. 실제 위의 사진과 같이 조수간만의 차에 의해서 shallow sea에서는 많은 시간 공기중에, 직사광선에 몇시간씩 노출이 됩니다. 그럼에도 불구하고 산호들은 별 문제없이 생존하면서 살아오고 있습니다.

비밀은 바로 여기에 있는데요



With that out of the way, the point is that when Spring tides occur in many areas, the tops of the reef can be left completely exposed. To survive, the corals (stony and soft) produce a protective coating of mucus in order to stay wet. All of them retract their polyps during this time, and soft corals shrink down and slump over. By the way, giant clams (tridacnids) are also left exposed at times, and can obviously survive some time out of water, too. We're not testing them, though (yet?).

산호들은 생존을 위해 물기를 유지하기 위해서 mucus라고 하는 점액질로 몸을 보호합니다. 또한 Soft coral같은 경우는 몸을 움츠리기도 합니다. Clam의 경우 역시 물이 없이도 몇시간을 버틸 수가 있습니다. 하지만 그렇지 못한 녀석들도 있다고 합니다


I've seen almost no sponges living in spots where they could become exposed. There have been a few, but these must have some special adaptation that allows them to do so. Likewise, I don't recall seeing many sea fans/gorgonians out of water. I don't know why these wouldn't be able to tolerate exposure when so many of their cousins can, but it seems that they can't as best as I can tell.

스폰지류나 시팬,gorgonian류는 오래 버티지 못한다고 합니다.

실제 실험으로 6시간동안 7개의 산호에 대해서 공기중에 내놓고 생존을 확인한 결과 5개의 산호가 큰 문제가 없었다고 합니다.


Considering that the majority of domestic flights are less than 6 hours, we believe these seven species can be transported without water with little worry. However, it is possible that the initial health of a specimen and/or a significant change in temperature could have an effect on survivability. Thus, we recommend only doing this with specimens known to be in good health, and that they should be kept at approximately room temperature for the duration of travel.

하지만 모든 경우에 대해서 위의 내용이 성립하지는 않습니다. 노출되기 전에 산호의 상태가 좋아야 하고 여행기간동안에 온도변화가 크지 않다면 위와 같이 생존율을 높일 수 있게 됩니다.

미국에 이쁜 frag이 많이 있기는 하지만 13시간이상 비행에 성공할 수 있을지 시험해 보고 싶지는 않습니다. :)
 



"Reef Article" 카테고리의 다른 글

spsholic Reef Article

2009/09/20 13:01 2009/09/20 13:01
  1. Blog Icon
    정봉진

    미국은 땅이 넓어 동부에서 얻은 프랙을 서부로 가지고 가려면

    비행기를 타야 하는데 물을 넣은 프랙을 가지고 비행기를 타지 못하니까

    물없이 이동을 하는 경우도 있나보군요.

    프랙 때문에 비행기를 타고 다니는 것도 대단한 정성이네요.

  2. Blog Icon
    SPSHolic

    네..대단하지요?

    911테러이후에 액체반입이 더 어려워진 이유도 있는 것 같습니다. :) 워낙 땅이 넓은 곳이다 보니.. 이사람들 열정도 무시하지 못할 것 같습니다.

Amino Acid Product for Corals

2009/04/02 23:31
이번에는 산호에서 사용되는 Amino Acid 제품을 정리해 보았다.


Reef Booster of Prodiobio

Packs of 6, 12, 30 bulbs.
 
 http://www.prodibio.fr/anglais/reefbooster.htm

REEF BOOSTER is a complete nutrient supplement containing all the essentials for the development of invertebrates which basically or partially feed on micro-plankton including corals in which symbiotic algae - Zooxanthelles - live and for which a micro-plankton booster is necessary.

REEF BOOSTER contains very high concentrations of the polyunsaturated fatty acid groups which all marine organisms need. A few drops in the food of marine fish makes it more appetising - an effective solution when starting to feed difficult or recently imported fish.

Contents :

Phospholipide, Aminosäuren, meerestypische Fettsäuren, Vitamine, Carotenoide.
Phospholipids, amino acids, omega-3 marine fatty acids, vitamins, carotenoids...
We reserve the right to modify the REEF BOOSTER formulation to include the results of our on-going research programme.

Instruction for use :

One ampoule per 400 litres once a week.

1. Dilute the contents of an ampoule in a glass of water
2. Pour the preparation around the aquarium, stopping skimmer and filter
3. 15 mn later, restart the skimmer and filter.

Warner Marine Aminos
http://www.warnermarine.com/Product19-UltAmino.html


ReefPure Ultimate Aminos Supplement ReefPure Ultimate Aminos Supplement provides essential Amino Acids for the growth of hard corals including SPS and LPS corals. Amino acids are used in the calcification process to build coral skeleton and are equally important as Calcium and Carbonates. In addition, Amino Acids serve as an energy source for corals and beneficial bacteria. ReefPure Ultimate Aminos Supplement is a comprehensive blend of essential Amino Acids as found in coral skeletons and includes proteins vital for calcification and tissue coloration.

ReefPure Ultimate Aminos Supplement is a unique product that actually promotes growth beyond natural growth rates and promotes the maximum color intensity of the coral tissue. Contains: 5-Stage Reverse Osmosis/Deionized water and a proprietary blend of Amino Acids.


Zeovit AAHC

Amino Acid High Concentrate

This product primarily aids growth as well as vitality. Our experiments have shown that
corals can increase growth by up to 100%, even if placed in low light spots. Polyp
extension is also maximized. We exclusively use amino acids that are available in the
wild and can be utilized by the corals. We recommend dosing of 1 drop per 25 gallons
daily. Over dosing is not a factor, as long as there is no problem with brown slime
algae. It is possible that coral tissue darkening occurs if there is a continued
overdosing. In that case, reduce the dosing amount to 1/3rd. You should not have a
problem with this, if you follow the dosing instructions. However, if signs of excessive
dosing occur, stop dosing for a few days until the slime build-up is gone. This
supplement can also be used in tanks not using the ZEOvit® method.

http://www.korallen-zucht.de/en/shop/pr ··· ate.html

Seachem Reef Plus AA
http://www.seachem.com/products/product ··· lus.html



Reef Plus

Reef Plus™ is a full spectrum reef supplement containing trace elements, vitamins, and amino acids demonstrated to have a positive impact on the growth of corals and other desirable reef creatures. Reef Plus™ is formulated to provide nutrients available from natural tropical reef waters. Contains vitamin B12, vitamin C, thiamine, inositol, choline, iodide, and other essential constituents. Reef Plus™ is nitrate/phosphate free.

Sizes: 100 mL, 250 mL, 500 mL, 2 L, 4 L, 20 L

Why It's Different

Other manufacturers’ vitamin supplements are incomplete, containing only vitamins and trace minerals. Reef Plus™ contains necessary amino acids in addition to a full complement of trace minerals and high amounts of vitamin C and B complex vitamins. It is so concentrated that it can be effectively used as a food soak for frozen fish foods.

Directions

Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 80 L (20 gallons*) twice a week or as required to maintain coral growth. May also be used in food by mixing 1 mL in about 15 mL (1 tablespoon) of food. Refrigerate after opening.

Guaranteed Analysis

Amounts per 1 gram

Vitamins & Lipotropic Factors
Ascorbic Acid (Vit C)
5.0 mg
Thiamin (B1)
0.02 mg
Riboflavin (B2)
0.02 mg
Niacin (B3)
0.25 mg
Pantothenate (B5)
0.07 mg
Vitamin B12
0.9 µg
Choline (B4)
0.004 mg
Inositol
0.011 mg
Arginine
0.16 mg
Glutamate
0.9 mg
Lysine
0.3 mg
Tyrosine
0.19 mg
Minerals
Boron
0.096 mg
Iodine
0.18 mg
Iron
0.009 mg
Copper
0.001 mg
Zinc
0.005 mg
Maganese
0.062 mg
Bromide
0.3 mg
Cobalt
0.004 mg
Molybdenum
0.016 mg
Vanadium
0.0003 mg
Nickel
0.00035 mg
Tin
0.00029 mg
Rubidium
0.001 mg

Ingredients: ascorbic acid, glutamate, niacin, arginine, lysine, tyrosine, pantothenate, riboflavin, thiamin, choline, inositol, Vitamin B12, potassium bromide, potassium iodide, boric acid, manganese sulfate, sodium molybdate, ferric chloride, copper sulfate, zinc sulfate, cobalt sulfate, rubidium chloride, vanadium sulfate, nickel chloride, stannous chloride



Brightwell Coral Aminos
http://www.brightwellaquatics.com/

사용자 삽입 이미지
 

Overview
  • Complex of free-form amino acids in the same ratios found within tissues of stony corals.
  • Beneficial to all corals (stony and soft), as well as solitary and colonial polyps.
  • Free-form amino acids:
    1. Provide the building blocks of coral tissue in ideal ratios to encourage the formation of new tissue.
    2. Encourage new tissue growth to repair damage incurred during fragmentation and propagation.
    3. Encourage growth by budding and fission.
    4. Encourage vibrant coloration.
  • Formulated based upon data compiled by oceanographers researching coral tissue profiles.
  • Does not require refrigeration.
  • Formulated by a marine scientist.
    Technical Background

    Brightwell Aquatics CoralAmino is a complex that closely approximates ratios of amino acids present in many species of stony corals; the formulation is based upon extensive research conducted on tropical coral reefs by oceanographic researchers. While the ratios of amino acids present in coral tissue vary between species, general ratios are approximately maintained, enabling an effective average to be created that will benefit not only stony corals, but also soft corals, solitary, and colonial polyps (e.g. Xenia, Anthelia, Zoanthus, Discoma, Actinodiscus, etc.). The amino acids are present in their most elementary form (”free-form”) rather than being accounted for by their presence in a food or complex nutrient; in this fashion, they are readily available to corals and their allies. The main benefit of this quality is the ease in which corals can assimilate the amino acids into their tissue for the purpose of growth and tissue repair. Secondary benefits of some amino acids are their role in enhancing the coloration of corals.
    Corals maintained under optimal chemical and environmental conditions are able to reproduce (both sexually and asexually) more rapidly when the required nutrients are available. The presence of these free-form amino acids is particularly important to corals that have undergone, or will undergo, fragmenting or other means of propagation in which some amount of tissue is damaged.

    Instructions and Guidelines
    Shake product well before using. Turn protein skimmer and other forms of mechanical filtration off prior to adding CoralAmino to aquaria, and allow 10 - 15 minutes after use before resuming operation of filtration. Target Feeding (recommended): Pour 1 ml (~20 drops) into a small container and suck a portion into feeding device, then slowly discharge contents 2 - 4” upstream of target organism(s). Repeat these steps as deemed necessary. Do not place the glass dropper directly into aquarium water unless you plan to thoroughly rinse it (inside and outside) with fresh water before placing dropper back into bottle; failure to do so will contaminate the product and encourage it to decompose.
    Broadcast Feeding: Add up to 1 ml per 50 gallons of water in an area of rapid water movement daily for the first four weeks of use.
    Notes: Research indicates that amino acid uptake in corals takes place externally rather than internally; therefore, soaking foods in CoralAmino would be of little use. Rather, it is best utilized by target feeding specific corals and their allies; in doing so, the majority of the amino acids reach the intended organisms rather than ending up in filtration media or indirectly impacting water quality (as often occurs when indescriminately “broadcast feeding”).
    Add no more than 5 ml total of liquid food suspensions per 50 gallons of water in the entire aquarium system daily for the first four weeks of use; thereafter, the dosage may be gradually increased as desired.
  • PolypLab RF-Acid
    http://www.polyplab.com/reefresh.html

        

         Concentrated fusion of select amino acids

         The role of amino acids becomes critical in a low nutrient environment. RF-Acids is blend of specific amino acids that our research has shown to improve coral growth and colouration. Those that inhibit coral growth have been excluded from this highly concentrated mixture.

     

    Reference: 관련된 RC의 글을 링크해본다.
    http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showt ··· D1605071

    "Reef Article" 카테고리의 다른 글

    spsholic Reef Article

    2009/04/02 23:31 2009/04/02 23:31

    ZeoZym and Cyano

    2008/12/17 00:38

    집에 있는 어항에 시아노가 생기기 시작했습니다. zeozym이 여기에 효과가 있다고 해서 구입을 할까 하다가 용준아빠님께서 한 번 써보라고 조금 나누어 주셨습니다. (감사합니다. 용준아빠님. 맨날 받기만 하네요)

    zeozym에 대해서는 이 블로그에서도 조금 소개가 된 바 있습니다 매그넘리프의 용준아빠님의 글을 참고하시면 될 것 같습니다.
    http://magnumreef.com/zbxe/30138

    우선 zeozym의 모습입니다. 산호사색에 가까운 가루인데요. 아래에 표시한데로 붉은색의 것이 있습니다. 이것은 뭔지 잘 모르겠습니다.  

    사용자 삽입 이미지

    사용법은 다음과 같습니다.

    1. 기본 사용법

      - 0.51L의 어항 물에 적당량의 zeozym을 넣고, 충분히 저어준 후, 10분 정도를 기다린 다음, 어항에 투여

         * 1주차 첫 번째 날에는 250갈론(1000리터) zeozym 3티스푼 사용

         * 1주차 나머지 날에는 250갈론(1000리터) zeozym 1티스푼 사용

         * 2주차부터는 250갈론(1000리터) zeozym 1티스푼을 사용하여 1주일에 2회 투여

      - zeozym 투여시 스키머는 1-2시간 정도 꺼 두어야 함

      - zeozym을 넣는 방법은 양말필터에 넣으면 되며, 넣은 후 어항에 백탁이 온 것처럼 뿌옇게 변하는데,
        
    이것은 지극히 정상임

     

    2. 시아노 및 slime-algae 등의 문제가 있는 어항

      - zeozym 용량용법은 1항의 기본 사용법대로 하되,

      - 시아노박테리아나 slime-algae가 있다면 0.51L의 어항 물에 “어항에 맞는 용량의 ZZ + 어항에 투여하는 양의 Bak + 1-2ml PCS(옵션)”을 넣고, 6-10시간 정도를 기다린 후, 투여

      - 시아노 및 slime-algae 등의 문제가 없어질 때 까지 매일 투여

     

    3. 기타 이용방법

      - Zeoadmin G. Alexander 1주차에 매일보다 2일에 1회씩 넣어주는 방법을 제안

      - TeamZEO steffen 8주 동안 zeozym을 사용하였는데, 그는 “ZZ+BAK+PCS" 조합을 이용하며, 저녁에 넣을 때, 스키머를 밤새 꺼 두었다가 아침에 스키머를 켜면 잘 작동한다고 함

     

    4. 주의사항 및 기타

      - zeozym을 매일 장기간 사용할 경우에는 산호 발색이 어두어질 수 있음

      - zeozym을 어항물과 혼합하는데, RO/DI에 혼합해도 됨

      - zeozym을 사용함으로서 칼슘 수치가 상승한다는 포스트가 있음

      - zeozym 사용시 ORP가 약 4-50 정도 일시적으로 떨어지다가 예전대로 회복하는데 몇 시간이 걸림

      - 일부 사람들은 초기 사용할 때, zeozym의 효과가 그리 좋지 못하다고 하는데 대해서
         Aged Salt
    1주일 이상 지나야 효과가 점점 나타난다고 함



    시아노가 있다고 해서 2번의 사용법으로 진행을 하기로 했습니다.  400리터에 맞춰서 어항물을 놓고  ZZ+PCS+Bak을 투여하였습니다. 섞어보니 이런 색이 나는군요


    사용자 삽입 이미지
     4시간이 지나니 용준아빠님 사진처럼 침전물이 생기게 됩니다. 투여를 하고 스키머를 새벽까지 꺼두었습니다. 단번에 해결되지는 않을 것 같고 2주동안 상태를 지켜볼 생각입니다. 어제 zeovit media를 교체하고 물갈이를 하였습니다. 물갈이는 2주마다 하고 새로 교체한 media로 인해 bak을 이틀에 한번씩 줘야 하므로 ZZ와의 사이클이 어느정도 맞을 것입니다

    이건 지금 현재 내 어항의 시아노입니다. 수류방향을 바꾸다가 산호사를 건드렸더니 수질밸런스가 좀 깨진 것 같습니다.
    사용자 삽입 이미지

    결과를 기대해 봅니다.

    이전에 간략하게 올렸던 zeozym소개 글입니다.
    http://www.spsholic.com/entry/zevoit-new-product

    이것은 zeovit에 있는 ZZ관련 글이고요..
    http://www.zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14701

    "Reef Article" 카테고리의 다른 글

    spsholic Reef Article , ,

    2008/12/17 00:38 2008/12/17 00:38
    1. Blog Icon
      월곡전우

      아~~ 시아노 영원한 숙제인것 가텨요~~

    2. Vince,
      I also noticed that Zeozym contains very small red portion, but I do not know what it is. Do you know it? I cannot understand what you wrote because it is in Korean. =)

    3. Blog Icon
      SPSHolic

      Hi Taka. I will add the english in my thread for ya. :)

      No I also do not know what it is. I asked about this in zeovit forum and G.Alexander asked the KZ for me. If I got what it is, I will let you know. Thanks.

    Right Bulb Right Ballast

    2008/12/03 13:23

    한동안 T5를 사용하려다 MH로 가려니 마음이 설렙니다.. ^^ 결과가 어찌되었던 하고 싶은 것을 해본다는 것이 이렇게 기분좋은 것이라니... 개인의 취향도 이랬다 저랬다 하니 괜찮은 T5나 MH pendant는 하나씩 가지고 있으면 좋지 않을까 합니다. 요즘에 간간히 MH에 관한 질문이 계속 들어오고 있는터라 잘 모르는 내용을 하나씩 공부해보고자 합니다. 예전에도 봤던 것인데 그렇게 맘에 닿지 않았었습니다. 한도 끝도 없으니 제 관심사인 라듐이야기만 좀 해보려고 합니다.

    RC에서 정보를 찾아보면서 MH와 안정기에 대한 가장 중요한 포인트는 이것입니다.

    올바른 등에 올바른 안정기를 선택하라.!!
    우리나라에서 가장 많이 쓰는 것은 아마 두영안정기와 타르식 안정기라고 하는 마그네틱 안정기일 것입니다. 타르식이라는 것은 마그네틱을 감싸고 있는 몰타르를 일컫는 것이 아닌가 하고요...그런데 문제는 이 안정기에 radium도 달고 다양한 전구를 달고 있다는 것인데요. 사실 큰 문제가 되진 않습니다. 어쨌든 불은 켜지니까요. 하지만 경험상 색이 많이 다르다는 것을 알 수 있습니다. 그런데 실제로는 수명에도 문제가 있을 수 있습니다.

    RC에 여러 전문가들이 있지만 PaulErik아이디를 가지고 있는 사람의 글을 인용하면서 진행하고자 합니다. 미국에서는 각 안정기의 타입에 따라 ANSI에서 정한 번호가 있습니다. 안정기는 크게 점화방식에 따라서 Probe start와 Pulse Start로 나뉘게 됩니다. 프로브식은 점화전용 전극이 전구안에 있는 등 타입이고 펄스식은 점화전용 전극이 없는 전구로, 안정기에서 점화를 시켜줌니다 사진으로 표현하자면 이렇게 됩니다.

    Another difference is the starting method. The standard ballast ANSI M58 uses a peaked open circuit voltage. Only self-starting (probe start) lamps are designed for this (like the XM lamps). It only provides 600 volts or less. A probe start lamp has an additional auxiliary electrode connected to a starting circuit (bi-metal switch and current limiting resistor) within the lamp. When the lamp is first powered a discharge is created between the auxiliary electrode and closest main electrode. The small electrode distance allows the lamp to light reliably at a low voltage. Once the initial discharge is reacted the main discharge between the two main electrodes occurs.

    사용자 삽입 이미지


    ANSI를 간단히 정리하자면 이렇게 되겠습니다.

    Probe Start ANSI Codes :
    M102=150W, M57=175W, M58=250W, M59=400W, M47=1,000W.
    Pulse Start ANSI Codes :
    M85=70W , M81=150W , M137=175W, M138=250W, M135=400W.

    Radium 250W는 HQI 등으로 알려져 있습니다. (Radium 400W는 또 다릅니다) 이제 HQI에 대해서 알아봐야 할 것 같습니다.

    HQI is a trademark of OSRAM, and stands for a specific brand of lamps made by OSRAM. The aquarium industry has been quite loose with this term and has applied it to any European metal halide lamp and now, even more loosely, to any DE lamp. European MH lamps do not directly conform to the ANSI standard and have different operating current and voltage requirements. In most cases, a direct match may not exist with U.S. ballasts, so the aquarium industry has tried to find ballasts that work with those lamps, and have labeled these as HQI ballasts. For example, the M80 and M81 ballasts are called “HQI ballasts” in the aquarium industry, for 150-watt and 250-watt lamp applications, respectively.
    From
    http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-03/sj/index.php


    HQI는 원래 OSRAM에서 유래된 것으로 OSRAM의 대표적인 전구를 의미했는데요. 이것이 이곳에서는 유럽의 MH를 의미하다가 요새는 DE MH을 가리키는 말이 되었습니다. 유럽형 전구는 미국 표준인 ANSI와 잘 안맞기 때문에 일반 미국 안정기에는 맞지 않았습니다. 그래서 아쿠아리움 관련업체들이 이 전구에 어울리는 안정기를 찾기 시작했고 이것이 HQI ballast로 이름지어 불리어 졌습니다. 예를 들어 M80,M81이 HQI ballast입니다. 라듐등 250W에는 이것을 사용해야 합니다.

    The Radium 250-watt lamp is brighter on any ballast compared to the XM 20,000K lamp. The Radium lamp is approximately 140 percent brighter on the recommended/approved ANSI M80 ballast versus a standard (ANSI M58) or pulse start (ANSI M138/M153) ballast.


    올바른 M80 안정기를 사용하면 standard나 pulse start 안정기를 사용했을 때 보다 250W 라듐등은 140%나 밝습니다.
    The standard ANSI M58 and pulse start ANSI M138/M153 ballast is designed to provide 2.1 amps to the lamp while operating. The Radium lamp is designed to be operated at 2.8-3.0 amps. This causes the ballast to provide less wattage to the lamp. It will only provide 210 watts maximum to the lamp. The Radium 250-watt lamp is actually rated at 270-watts. That is a big reduction in wattage. The problem with this is the lamp can never reach the ideal operating temperature. Metal halide lamps need to reach the rated lamp wattage so the lamp stabilizes properly and assures the majority of the halides/salts mix and reach the arc stream.

    250W 라듐등은 동작함에 있어서 일반등 보다 높은 전류를 요구합니다 따라서 Standard ANSI M58이나 ANSI M138/M153등을 사용할 경우 라듐등에 필요한 적절한 온도로 올리지 못하게 됩니다 따라서 제 기능을 못하게 된다는 얘기입니다.

    The Radium lamp is a different design. It is a pulse start type lamp. It lacks the additional electrode. To reliably light this lamp it requires a high voltage lamp starter (ignitor). Radium specifies 4000 Volts to reliably start this lamp. The high voltage lamp starter/ignitor is used to strike an arc between the two main electrodes


    250W 라듐등은 Pulse start type의 램프입니다. 즉 추가적인 electrode가 없습니다. 이 전구를 구동하기 위해서는 처음에 4000볼트정도가 필요하게 됩니다.

    HQI ballasts will operate any lamp but is only recommended for European and Double-Ended (DE) lamps. This ballast provides higher lamp current which will overdrive standard type (probe start) Single-Ended (SE) lamps (operate lamp past wattage rating). This will shorten lamp life

    HQI 안정기는 USHIO와 같은 DE타입 또는 Radium 250W에 어울립니다. 만약에 이것을 일반 Probe start식의 SE 전구에 연결하게 되면 안정기 자체가 SE전구가 필요로 하는 양보다 많은 전류를 제공하기 때문에 수명이 짧아지게 됩니다. 그래서 아무것이나 연결하는 것은 바람직 하지 않습니다.
     
    만약에 250W Radium전구를 반대로 일반 magnetic ballst에 연결한다면요?


    If the ballast you have is a standard magnetic PFO ballast it is not recommended for the Radium lamp. It can cause unreliable lamp starting because the standard ballast does not have a lamp ignitor (starter). The Radium lamp is a none self starting lamp and requires a ballast that has a high voltage pulse ignitor to start the lamp properly.


    250W Radium등은 스스로 동작할 수 있는 Standard구조가 아니라 Pulse start구조로 되어 있습니다. 그래서  Probe방식인 PFO 안정기와는 어울리지 않습니다. 위에서 말한것 처럼 라듐등에 필요한 high voltage를 얻을 수가 없습니다. 올바른 색감이 나오지 않고 250W Radium본연의 색을 찾을 수 없게 됩니다.


        각 전구에 대한 ANSI 는 여기에 잘 소개가 되어 있습니다.
       
    http://www.aquarium-lighting-guide.com/ ··· ide-ansi

    또한 이 글이 아주 도움이 되실 것 같습니다. 또한 각 전구에 대한 ballast 타입도 친절하게 표현을 하고 있습니다.

    마지막으로 각 전구종류별로 타입이 정리되어 있는 표를 올려봅니다. 이 표 하나면 왠만한 등에 대한 정보는 모두 알 수 있을 것 같습니다.

     
    Aquarium Metal Halide Lamps and Their Recommended Ballasts as Specified by Manufacturers
    (Compiled by Paul Erik Hirvonen).
    70/75-watt MH DE Lamps

    Lamp Standard

    Lamp Type

    Recommended 
    Ballast

    Aqualine Buschke

    HQI/M85

    PULSE

    M85

    BLV

    HQI/M85

    PULSE

    M85

    Ushio

    HQI/M85

    PULSE

    M85

    Venture

    HQI/M85

    PULSE

    M85/M98

    150-watt MH SE Lamps

    Lamp Standard

    Lamp Type

    Recommended 
    Ballast

    Iwasaki 6500K Med

    M102

    PULSE

    M102

    Iwasaki 50,000K Med

    M102

    PULSE

    M102

    150-watt MH DE Lamps

    Lamp Standard

    Lamp Type

    Recommended 
    Ballast

    Aquaconnect

    HQI/M81

    PULSE

    M81

    Aqualine Buschke

    HQI/M81

    PULSE

    M81

    CoralVue

    HQI/M81

    PULSE

    M81

    Giesemann Megachrome

    HQI/M81

    PULSE

    M81

    BLV

    HQI/M81

    PULSE

    M81

    Iwasaki

    HQI/M81

    PULSE

    M81

    Radium

    HQI/M81

    PULSE

    M81*

    Sylvania

    HQI/M81

    PULSE

    M81

    Ushio

    HQI/M81

    PULSE

    M81

    Venture

    HQI/M81

    PULSE

    M81/M102

    XM

    HQI/M81

    PULSE

    M81

    * Note Radium Blue/20,000K (HRI-TS 150W/230/B/RX7S) is rated at 160W and may not operate on electronic ballasts with safety shutoff.

    175-watt MH SE Lamps

    Lamp Standard

    Lamp Type

    Recommended 
    Ballast

    Aquaconnect 14,000K

    Euro PS

    PULSE

    M137/M152

    Aqualine Buschke 10/13,000K

    Euro PS

    PROBE*

    M137/M152*

    BLV Nepturion 10,000K

    Euro PS

    PULSE

    M137/M152

    CoralVue 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    ?

    PROBE

    ?

    CoralVue ReefLux 10,000K, 12,000K

    ?

    PROBE

    ?

    EVC 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    M57

    PROBE

    M57

    Hamilton 14,000K

    M57

    PROBE

    M57

    Helios 12,500K, 20,000K

    M57

    PROBE

    M57

    Iwasaki AQUA 2 15,000K

    M57

    PROBE

    M57

    PFO Lighting 11,000K, 18,000K

    M57

    PROBE

    M57

    Ushio Aqualite 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    M137/M152

    PULSE

    M137/M152

    Venture 5,000K,10,000K

    M57

    PROBE

    M57

    XM 10,000K, 15,000K, 20,000K

    M57

    PROBE

    M57

    * Note Aqualine Buschke 10/13,000K (175W SE) is a probe start lamp but is recommended for use on a pulse start ballast. A probe start ballast may not provide adequate sustaining voltage during warm-up and might cause cycling.
    * Note Euro PS refers to low lamp current Pulse Start European specification.

    250-watt MH SE Lamps

    Lamp Standard

    Lamp Type

    Recommended 
    Ballast

    Aquaconnect 14,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI*

    Aqualine Buschke 10/13,000K

    ?

    PROBE*

    M138/M153*

    Blueline 10,000K+, 10,000K Superwhite

    M58

    PROBE

    M58

    BLV Topflood 5200K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI*

    BLV Nepturion 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI*

    BLV Colorlite Blue (20,000K)

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI*

    CoralVue 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    ?

    PROBE

    ?

    CoralVue ReefLux 10,000K, 12,000K

    ?

    PROBE

    ?

    EVC 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    M58

    PROBE

    M58

    Giesemann Megachrome Marine 12,500K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI*

    Giesemann Megachrome Coral 14,500K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI*

    Hamilton 14,000K

    M58

    PROBE

    M58

    Iwasaki 6500K Clean Arc

    M58

    PROBE

    M58

    Iwasaki 6500K Clean Ace

    H37

    PROBE

    H37

    Osram Daylight (HQI-T 250W/D)

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI*

    PFO Lighting Krystal Star 11,000K, 18,000K

    M58

    PROBE

    M58

    Radium Blue/20,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI*

    Sunburst 12,000K

    M58

    PROBE

    M58

    Ushio Aqualite 10,000K (UHI-S250AQ/10/CWA)

    M58

    PROBE

    M58

    Ushio Colorlite Blue/20,000K (UHI-S250/E39/BLUE)

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI*

    Venture 5,000K,10,000K

    M58

    PROBE

    M58

    XM 10,000K, 15,000K, 20,000K

    M58

    PROBE

    M58

    * Note Aqualine Buschke 10/13,000K (250W SE) is a probe start lamp but recommended for use on a pulse start ballast. A probe start ballast may not provide adequate sustaining voltage during warm-up and might cause cycling.
    * Note HQI refers to high lamp current European specification. Operating it on a standard American pulse start (ANSI M138/M153) ballast will reduce its output and may cause color shift.

    250-watt MH DE Lamps

    Lamp Standard

    Lamp Type

    Recommended 
    Ballast

    Aquaconnect 14,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    Aqualine Buschke 10,000K, 20,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    BLV Nepturion 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    CoralVue 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    CoralVue ReefLux 10,000K, 12,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    EVC 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    Giesemann Megachrome Marine 12,500K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    Giesemann Megachrome Coral 14,500K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    Giesemann Megachrome Blue 22,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    Hamilton 14,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    Helios 12,500K, 20,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    PFO Lighting Krystal Star

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    Phoenix Electric HexArc 14,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    Ushio Aqualite 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    XM 10,000K, 15,000K, 20,000K

    M80/HQI

    PULSE

    M80/HQI

    400-watt MH SE Lamps

    Lamp Standard

    Lamp Type

    Recommended 
    Ballast

    Aquaconnect 14,000K

    HQI

    PULSE

    HQI*

    Aqualine Buschke 10,000K

    ?

    PROBE

    M135/M155

    BLV Nepturion 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    HQI

    PULSE

    HQI*

    BLV Colorlite Blue (20,000K)

    HQI

    PULSE

    HQI*

    CoralVue 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    ?

    PROBE

    ?

    CoralVue ReefLux 10,000K, 12,000K

    ?

    PROBE

    ?

    EVC 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    M59

    PROBE

    M59

    Giesemann Megachrome Marine 12,500K

    HQI

    PULSE

    M135/M155/HQI*

    Giesemann Megachrome Coral 14,500K

    HQI

    PULSE

    M135/M155/HQI*

    Hamilton 14,000K

    M59

    PROBE

    M59

    Helios 12,500K, 20,000K

    M59

    PROBE

    M59

    Osram Daylight (HQI-BT 400W/D)

    HQI

    PULSE

    M135/M155/HQI*

    Osram Daylight (HQI-T 400W BLUE)

    Euro PS

    PULSE

    M135/M155

    PFO Lighting Krystal Star

    M59

    PROBE

    M59

    Radium Blue (20,000K)

    Euro PS

    PULSE

    M135/M155

    Sylvania Aqua Arc 10,000K

    M59

    PROBE

    M59

    Ushio Aqualite 10,000K (UHI-S400AQ/10)

    HQI

    PULSE

    M135/M155/HQI*

    Ushio Aqualite 10,000K (UHI-S400AQ/10/CWA)

    M59

    PROBE

    M59

    Ushio Aqualite 14,000K, 20,000K

    HQI

    PULSE

    M135/M155/HQI*

    Ushio Colorlite Blue (20,000K) (UHI-S400BL)

    M59

    PROBE

    M59

    Venture 5,000K,10,000K

    M59

    PROBE

    M59

    XM 10,000K, 15,000K, 20,000K

    M59

    PROBE

    M59

    * Note Aqualine Buschke 10/13,000K (400W SE) is a probe start lamp but is recommended for use on a pulse start ballast. A probe start ballast may not provide an adequate sustaining voltage during warm-up and might cause cycling.
    * Note HQI refers to high lamp current European specification. Operating it on a standard American pulse start (ANSI M135/M155) ballast will reduce its output and may cause color shift.
    * Note Euro PS refers to low lamp current Pulse Start European specification. Operation on an HQI ballast is not advised by the manufacturer and will overdrive the lamp.

    400-watt MH DE Lamps

    Lamp Standard

    Lamp Type

    Recommended 
    Ballast

    CoralVue 10,000K, 14,000K, 20,000K

    HQI

    PULSE

    M135/M155/M108/HQI*

    Hamilton 10,000K, 20,000K

    HQI

    PULSE

    M135/M155/M108/HQI*

    IceCap 10,000K, 20,000K

    M108

    PULSE

    M135/M155/M108

    Osram Daylight (HQI-TS 400W/D)

    HQI

    PULSE

    M135/M155/M108/HQI*

    PFO Lighting Krystal Star 11,000K, 18,000K

    HQI

    PULSE

    M135/M155/M108/HQI*

    Radium 5,200K (HRI-TS 400W/D/230/FC2)

    HQI

    PULSE

    M135/M155/M108/HQI*

    * Note HQI refers to high lamp current European specification. Operating it on a standard American pulse start (ANSI M135/M155) ballast will reduce its output and may cause color shift.

    Table From http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-03/sj/index.php

    "Reef Article" 카테고리의 다른 글

    spsholic Reef Article ,

    2008/12/03 13:23 2008/12/03 13:23
    1. Blog Icon
      용준아빠

      정말 잘 읽었습니다.

      영배님같은 분이 계서서 우리나라 리프수준이 한차원 더 업그레이드 되는 것 같습니다.

    2. Blog Icon
      spsholic

      안녕하세요..
      별말씀을 다하십니다. :)

      조금이나마 도움이 되셨다면 저로서야 기분좋은 일이지요..

      :)

    3. Blog Icon
      월곡전우

      저같은 초보에겐 조금 어려운것 같습니다..ㅎㅎ

    4. Blog Icon
      spsholic

      안녕하세요..

      저도 잘 몰라서 그냥 정리를 해본 것입니다. 저도 잘 모릅니다. :)

      하지만 표가 잘 정리되어 있으니 원하는 메탈을 골라서 거기에 맞는 안정기를 선택하시면 되는 것이라 생각보다 어려우시진 않을겁니다.

      :)

    5. Blog Icon
      spsholic

      여기서 설명된 라듐등은 250W를 기준으로 작성이 되었습니다. 400와트는 HQI가 아니기 때문에 또 다른 issue가 있습니다. 혼란이 있을것 같아서 250W로 표기를 추가하였습니다. 즉 모든 라듐등이 HQI는 아니고요. 250와트만 HQI이고 400와트는 Pulse Start type입니다.

    Liverock bleaching

    2008/11/23 13:27
    클럽의 글에 가끔씩 백화현상이라는 단어가 보인다. 좀 생소한 단어라 찾아보았다.

    백화현상 [白化現象]

    바닷물 속에 고체 상태로 석출되어 떠다니는 탄산칼슘이 입사광의 산란으로 인해 우유를 뿌려놓은 것처럼 흰색으로 보이게 되는 현상을 말한다. 이 용출현상은 바닷물 속에 바로 석출되어 나타나기도 하고, 해양생물의 표면이나 해저 바위 등에 붙어 결정화되기도 한다.

    고체 상태의 탄산칼슘은 바닷물 속을 오래 떠다니다가 서서히 침전해 해저생물이나 해저의 바닥, 해저 바위에 달라붙게 되는데, 이 경우 눈이 내린 것처럼 온통 흰색으로 보이게 된다. 이 현상이 발생하는 원인에 대해서는 아직 정확히 밝혀진 것은 없고, 다만 바닷물 속에 녹아 있는 칼슘의 양 및 수온 변화에 따른 탄산칼슘의
    용해도 등과 관련이 있을 것으로 추정될 뿐이다.

    한국의 연근해에서 이 현상이 처음 발견된 것은 1970년대 말이었는데, 이후 발생 빈도가 높아지다가 1990년대 말에는
    경상북도 영덕군과 포항·영일만 일대의 동해안으로까지 확산되었다. 이로 인해 갯바위에 분홍색과 흰색을 띤 다양한 무늬의 흰색 물질이 달라붙어 전복·성게류 등 각종 어패류와 해조가 죽어가는 현상이 발생하는 등 동해 연안 저층의 해양 황폐화를 가속시켰다.

    전문가들은 이 현상이
    자연현상에 따른 것이기 때문에 인위적으로 억제하는 것은 매우 어렵다는 입장을 취하고 있으나, 일반적으로 전세계적인 이상기온과 수온상승, 인공구조물에 의한 조류 소통 방해, 육지의 오염물질 유입 등 지구 환경오염과 관련이 있을 것으로 추정하고 있다.

    이걸 영어사전에서 찾아보면

    백화 현상(百化現象) 『식물』 chlorosis

    이다. 그런데 chlorosis는 크로로필이 번성하거나 부족할때 식물이 누렇게 혹은 하얗게 변하는 현상을 말한다.

    Chlorosis is indeed an historical descriptor for any condition that results in a color shift of yellow-to-white in plant material that is normally green (i.e., the expulsion or destruction of chlorophyll) ... but it doesn't tell us much about the cause-- by mesocosm (Gary)
     라이브락이 가끔씩 하얀색으로 변한다는 글을 보게되는데 백화현상에 의한것이라기 보다는 붙어 있는 코랄라인이 죽는 경우가 많다. 물론 현상에 따라 다르겠지만...이런경우에 외국에서는 주로 Bleaching이라는 표현을 많이 사용하는 것 같다. Liverock bleaching은 라이브락에 있던 코랄라인등이 어떤 이유에서 죽으면서 죽은 부분이 하얗게 되는 것과 live rock자체가 bleaching되는 경우, 이렇게 2가지 경우로 나눠보아야 할 것 같다. 후자의 경우에는 높은 온도 혹은 화학적 약품등에 의해서도 가능하다 (박테리아에 의해서도 bleaching이 될 수 있다고 한다) 하지만 전형적인 liverock bleaching은 주로 코랄라인 알게등의 calcareous macroalgae가 갑작스럽게 죽으면서 발생하는 것이다.

    코랄라인 알게도 어떻게 보면 산호와 비슷하다. 산호 성장과 생존의 필요한 요소와 코랄라인등의 macroalgae가 생존하기 위한 요소는 거의 같다. 즉 산호가 잘 살면 코랄라인도 잘 산다는 것이다. 갑작스러운 빛의 변화나 KH의 변화, 물의 균형이 맞지 않거나 toxin등이 들어왔을 때도 bleaching 현상은 발생할 수가 있다.

    We should distinguish between the rock itself bleaching, and the calcareous macroalgae on the rock bleaching. The rock itself might appear to bleach if it is exposed to either sustained high temperature, or to a chemical agent (such as chlorine, or some pesticides). The rock itself might also appear to be bleached if it becomes heavily infested with either bacteria and/or fungi.
    More likely, however, is the rapid death of the calcareous macroalgae encrusting the live rock ... this is the typical "bleaching of live rock" that hobbyists report. People forget that calcareous macroalgae are direct competitors with corals in a natural reef environment, so it's sometimes surprising to them that the same things that can cause coral blreaching can also cause calcareous macroalgae bleaching. Excessive lighting is oftentimes at the top of the list of causes ... most calcareous macroalgae collected from the wild are adapted to moderate to low light levels, so when they're exposed to powerful metal halides, they bleach (only it's chlorophyll and not zooxanthellae that is being expelled). Similarly, any disruption in the supply of either nutrients or necessary minerals (alkalinity) can result in bleaching ... as can the presence of excess nutrients or minerals (alkalinity). Calcareous macroalgae exhibit a sensitivity to chemical toxins & pesticides compared with corals. Calcareous algae is also subject to various disease and parasites, as are corals.

    "Reef Article" 카테고리의 다른 글

    spsholic Reef Article ,

    2008/11/23 13:27 2008/11/23 13:27

    Flatworm

    2008/11/15 00:25
    As Previous picture, My tank has many Flatworm. and I hate them. I am looking for the method the safest remove method, but it is not easy. Because when they died, they pull out the toxin.
    http://room210.cool.ne.jp/acua/yakkai/hiramushi.htm
    There are some kind of chemical weapon.


    Flatworm Exit

    Salifert Flatworm eXit

    http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/p ··· %3D16551

    and the introduction of FWE experience
    http://www.melevsreef.com/flatworms.html

    Blue Life's Flatworm Control
    http://blog.marinedepot.com/2008/02/fla ··· lly.html



    Levamisol(Levasole) dosing
    (it is more powerful than FWExit and cheaper than FWE)
    http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showt ··· D1379099
    And Here is my question about this in this post.

    1. I have 100gal SPS tank and use zeovit method, zeovit uses bacteria to control nutrient. If I use levasole to kill FWs, It kills bacteria too?

    2. What is the proper carbon quantity of 100gal?

    3. Waht is the difference between levasole and Salifert FWExit? they has same  ingredient?

    4. 1/2 T or 1/2 t to 240ml DI water? T and t is different.

    5. I can get levasol in Korea . It is made by Janssen and white power form. Can I use this? We use this medicine for killing Camallanus of FW fish

    Thanks to Taka and CF head editor Takuta Murakami, I found the japanese case of Flatworm removal. CF11 p.142-3 is written about the flatworm.

    여전히 어떤 것을 사용할 지 고민하고 있다. Flatworm Exit은 많이 알려져 있지만 레바미졸이 더 싸고 효과가 있다고 하니..그러나 검증결과는 그렇게 많은 것이 아니고...




    "Reef Article" 카테고리의 다른 글

    spsholic Reef Article ,

    2008/11/15 00:25 2008/11/15 00:25

    The Crosshatch Triggerfish

    2008/10/07 11:46
    You can see the original post in marinedepot blog
    http://blog.marinedepot.com/2008/06/cro ··· hys.html

    I want you to introduce the crosshatch triggerfish because I love this fish. I want to keep male and female someday.


    Wednesday, June 25, 2008

    The Crosshatch Triggerfish (Xanthichthys mento)

    Progressive experimentation has been conducted by many hobbyists and professionals as to which fish can be compatible with one another in a “Reef Aquarium”.

    One fish that continues to have the so called “
    jaw dropping effects” on new and old hobbyist is the crosshatch triggerfish (Xanthichthys mento). Based upon the knowledge available, its natural habitat and feeding behavior, renders this particular suspect to be a well rounded tank mate in our home aquariums; potentially ignore most sessile invertebrates.

    The main reason I haven’t tried one until recently is because unfortunately I have not been able to afford one let alone find one that was under 7-10 inches.


    Adult
    crosshatch triggers in the wild can reach 12-14 inches in length, and most of the crosshatch’s which I have seen for sale has been in the 7-11 inch size range. In my experience choosing an adequately sized specimen for any given aquaria is crucial for the health and prosperity of any specimen.

    As hobbyist, we need make cautious decisions when choosing fish, always considering the longevity and health of any given specie along with their potential tank mates, when choosing our livestock.


    The short term stress effects of
    transportation and quarantining are no where near as stressful to livestock, when compared to placing them in an undersized aquarium.

    The key is to recreate a habitat to suit the specific breed of species which you desire. Adult fish in general, more often than not, have a small window of feeding preferences, due to the adaptation and behavioral conditioning while thriving in the wild.


    These influencial factors can cause many species to be more territorial and increasingly wary compared to juvenile fish, which makes it sometimes more difficult to introduce adult fish into an existing community.


    The biggest variable of course is the size of the aquaria.

    All trigger fish belong to the order Tetraodontiformes, which from my understanding includes the closely related file fish, puffer fish and boxfish.

    Triggers are members of the family Balistidae. The common name “trigger” comes from a unique characteristic of the first dorsal spine.

    It can be “
    locked rapidly like the trigger of a gun” into an erect position and held in place by the second dorsal spine further providing stability and strength to prevent removal from within the reef or surrounding shelters. At the first sign of danger, trigger fish bolt for the nearest reef crevice and rock structures and “trigger” their built-in locking mechanism.

    After engagement, they’re practically impossible to remove. Personally I have also seen trigger fish use this as an aggression tactic, to appear larger and more dominate than its rival. No other specie, has the “
    fight or flight” syndrome been more pronounced, and this sight is truly a spectacular sight to see; excuse me if my Reef Geekness shows throughout this article.

    Trigger fish are characterized by their rigid leathery skin and masculine jaws that contain razor-like teeth.
    The jaw muscles which underline the mouth structure are well equipped to remove flesh if necessary, however when choosing you potential new Trigger tank mate, the location of the mouth is a good indication that evolution has geared this specific breed of beauties to feast on plankton.

    In general they are considered forced inductive respirators; which means that they use the force of flow in the ocean in order to provide their gills with plenty of respiration. Keep in mind that if your tank is lacking in flow, this may also be a good idea to either upgrade your system flow or option for a specie which is suitable for your biotope.


    During relaxation and “grazing” they use a waving effect with their soft dorsal and anal fins.

    This swimming motion allows them to swim backwards as well as forward, which allows them to be very versatile and agile when swimming throughout the reefs.

    These fish actually make great pets, are disease-resistant, friendly, resilient and easy to feed ... these are a few reasons why they are considered a great specimen for advanced hobbyist. Crosshatches are charismatic and curious, which even makes them more pleasurable to keep in large aquariums, these particular breed of species normally do better in tanks larger than 300 gallons.


    The crosshatch trigger has the typical triangular shape of trigger fish when its fins are erect.


    Similar to other members of the genus Xanthichthys, crosshatch triggers are sexually dichromatic. The male has a more intense yellow background color on the body and wears with pride a
    red-trimmed tail “this is the more favored of the sexes", as opposed to the female, which has a yellow-fringed caudal fin.

    They are easily distinguished. Both sexes have vibrant blue radiating lines on the face and black lines that criss-cross along the body, hence the name “cross-hatch.”


    You will normally find most crosshatches being sold in pairs these days, as they normally have a higher rate of survival in pairs.


    Crosshatch trigger fish can be found thriving throughout the tropical and sub-tropical Eastern and
    Western Pacific Oceans but generally prefer smaller isolated oceanic islands such as Hawaii. They can be found in large schools in open water, usually at depths of 70 feet and greater. They feed exclusively on passing zooplankton.

    These conditions can have a dramatic impact on the cost of this particular breed, due to the depths at which they are normally found.


    The nature of their relative rarity and expensive cost in the aquarium trade is completely understandable, I’ve done free diving at roughly 25 feet and that was a task in itself, I cant even fathom what diving at 70-90 feet would be like to capture one or two of these gems.


    I actually got the pleasure of meeting an experienced crosshatch diver, stories which one could only imagine, it really put in perspective why these illusive creatures have such a high price tag. Excuse me if I’m wrong but I really don’t find diving at 70-90 feet in depth in order to capture a few fish fun, no matter what fish is on the agenda.


    Currents and temperatures at these depths can really be unpredictable especially on the western front of Hawaii. Crosshatches can be kept singly, in pairs, or in groups of one male and two or more females in the aquarium. Most hobbyist and professionals recommend that two males in anything but the largest of aquariums, is setting oneself up for disaster. Just like mid-water planktivores, crosshatch triggers are not picky eaters and will consume most aquarium fare.

    The diet should consist of predominantly meaty seafood’s, such as
    chopped krill, squid, plankton, silver sides, and mysis shrimp. Chopped krill is a particularly good food item because it provides beneficial carotenoids that help maintain the bright pigmentation in these fish. A good enrichment to a well rounded diet would be Selcon and Garlic, as it will provide your new tank mate with the essential highly unsaturated OMEGA 3 fatty acids, Marine Lipids, Stabilized Vitamin C and Vitamin B12 Cyanocobalamin.

    Like other reef fish that feed from the water column and open ocean, crosshatch triggers should be fed a few times a day in order to stabilize body weight. If a fish develops a pinched abdomen “stomach”, it’s not getting enough food. If and when starvation reaches the dorsal musculature, it’s usually too late for the fish to recover.

    The upper cut mouth, elongated jaw, and eyes pinched up at the forefront of its head; give a further clue as to the open-water feeding habits of the crosshatch trigger fish.


    With profound anatomy which this fish possesses, makes feeding on
    invertebrates and bottom dwelling species difficult for this particular fish to feed on. For these reasons many hobbyist believe that this fish is good tank mate and interesting addition to any large coral reef aquarium. So if you’re looking for a new mystical addition to your large reef tank, and your looking for a fish that not only has style but has a great amount of character, then a crosshatch trigger fish is perfect for you. I hope this information helps you in choosing your next trigger fish.

    Until next time, happy reefing.

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